Superior pump switch wiring Online by means of Any Electronics Co., Ltd.
The business specializes in giving electronic solutions including pump switch wiring, programmable timers, programmable digital timers, proximity switches, inductive linear sensors, photo-electronic switches, optical screen sensors, strong state relay, and switch energy supply, amongst other people. The client friendly site aims to provide outstanding high-quality at affordable rates to service seekers across the globe.
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Matthew asked What opens the flapper vane inside the air flow meter?
I'm working on a 1993 toyota 22r-e thinking maybe the fuel pump switch inside the air flow meter isn't turning on because it will run when the flapper is held open. so what opens that darn thing?
And got the following answer:
"What opens the flapper vane inside the air flow meter?" air flow. so if there are any air leaks between the filter box and the TB, she prolly wont start. w/a leak, that would require more flow to lift the vane than the pistons, at start rpm, can create. the ecu would think the engine isn't turning. so why give it fuel or operate the injectors. if it did, and the motor actually wasn't turning, end result would be filling the combustion chambers w/fuel. flooding would not be the paramount issue. hydraulicking and breaking a rod would be. ----- to test the AFM w/ an ohm meter, left to right pins are Fc, E1, E2, Vb, Vc, Vs, THA, E2-Vs=20-400 ohm E2 - Vc=100-300 ohm E2-Vb=200-400 ohm E2-THA=10-20 kohm (-4 degrees F) .............4-7 kohm (32 degrees F) .............2-3 kohm (68 degrees F) .............0.9-1.3 kohm (104 degrees F) .............0.4-0.7 kohm (140 degrees F) this tests the potentiometer for the vane. which amongst other things, would be the pump switch as you call it. E1-Fc vane closed/seated, infinity. off the seat is any reading other than infinity. testing good, if there are any air leaks she won't start. if that tests good/no air leaks, and other parameters are not met, the ecu will go to limp mode and she should start. all be it limited power/default mapping. summary, - if the AFM tests good only between E1 & Fc, and any or all others are bad, the AFM would need to be replaced, but that's not your starting/pump-on issue. do you have injector clicks? i take it the codes were cleared prior to this via removing the bat cables or something. cause the ecu should tell you the AFM it's at least online or not. otherwise it would produce a code saying out of range. something to that effect. still start, but in limp. my other reply, though wordy, in your other Q didn't help? did you test the pump via jumping B+ and FP in the dlc1 connector box? that not only bypasses all fuses/relays/dependent sub circuits, but proves good or bad wiring from that point to the pump directly. good to know!
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